Recap……..
After having rain for the whole day, we got a good news about the expected change in weather but this news made us more confused as two reports were entirely opposite so decision was suspended.
Link of last part,
https://tiktraventures.wordpress.com/2020/05/16/expedition-spantik-peak-7027m-part-vii/
PART – VIII OF EPISODE 2
The sky was comparatively clear and rain was stopped, when I opened the door of my tent to check weather. I could not sleep till late night as my mind was completely blank to make any decision. Would it be fine if the climbing team go for summit as per the new weather report or stay at camp and wait, following the instructions, which we were getting from three sources? I believe everyone was thinking on same lines and it was proved when we met at breakfast. There was an atmosphere of hope but with frustration as nothing was clear.
I was anxiously waiting for call from Skardu but before that Wajid received call from Islamabad office with same report as previous. On 28th. of July, the report was saying that weather would be clear from 2nd of August, which means that we have to wait for another 5 to 6 days. It was a disappointing situation. After few minutes, we got call from Skardu as well and they confirmed their last evenings’ statement that weather is clear till 2nd. of August. This was the most confusing rather frustrating situation. Both reports were mentioning change in weather on 2nd. of August but entirely opposite to each other. The negative report was static as we were receiving it for last several days while the positive report was new. Could it be wrong or incidentally some operator is making mistake in making this report?
Apparently this was not possible but still to confirm this news, I called Brig. Zubair. He was surprised to know about this conflicting situation however within few minutes, he personally checked and confirmed me about the health of his news, which was a clear go ahead for us. Although I was completely satisfied now but still I wanted to discuss with the team. Uzma suggested that they will shift to higher camps either to Camp 2 or Camp 3 and then decide further as per the situation. This was a sensible suggestion and Wajid, being the expedition leader, had the same opinion to second her. Once finalized, we announced that the team would leave for mountain by tomorrow morning. Our German friends had full trust on our decision and we conveyed our program to Islamabad office as well.
It was cloudy today but without rain and it was decided that the climbers would make necessary packing for their departure. All technical equipment was already there on the mountain, camps were established and rope fixed. The kitchen staff started preparing some special meals which could be used in upper camps. Wajid had planned to stock some dry items at camp 1, which could be used while going up and on return as well. Ahmed was ready to take good quantity of various items for shifting to Camp 1. With start of preparations, now the atmosphere at the camp was totally changed and everyone was busy in arrangements for the summit bid.
My plan to go back to Islamabad was also cancelled so Jawwad was free to leave but with instructions to come back after 5 days with a team of porters to dismantle the camp for return journey. The plan for climbing team was decided in the manner that they will reach at Camp 3 in two days and on third day, they will make it to summit and then another two days to get down. This plan was subjected to weather conditions and even if they had to add one extra day for any unforeseen situation or change in weather, it would be fine to complete the program, before change in weather. We had in mind that after climbing successfully, on last day while returning back from Camp 1 to base camp, even if the weather turns bad, it would be safe to return without any great difficulty.
So now everything was finalized and was in order, though on paper only. Our camp was looking alive now as for the last few days, the atmosphere was entirely depressing. Surprisingly, around lunch time the stranger visitor appeared again, for which Wajid was completely not ready as he was badly busy. Wajid had to take care of all arrangements as there would be no supplies from the base, once they reached beyond Camp 1. However, Wajid met him in a hurry and he asked to give him a piece of climbing rope. Since they had to climb difficult portions on mountain in search of gemstones so he was interested to get rope from us, while I was surprised that even if they had rope, how they would utilize it without other equipment items, like harness etc.
Wajid had hardly any spare time to spend with him so he told him that we will see after the expedition. He was not looking happy but we could not gift him climbing rope at the moment, however he was invited to have lunch in the kitchen and then he left with some ration items, which Ustaad was instructed to give him. He was told to add a piece of meat also, which we could spare easily but for them, it would make a feast.
Both, climbing and kitchen teams were busy in various tasks, while I was completely free and had nothing to do as such. However, I checked extra batteries for cameras and satellite phone. Mudassar was not geared up for higher camps so Wajid and Uzma were supposed to take care of photography on the mountain. I had a plan that Mudassar and I will go up to Camp 1 and return with Ahmad who was going to drop some necessary items of climbing team. After checking batteries, I went to see the kit items of Uzma. I could recognize few items in her kit, which were bought from Ascender, a reputed store in Islamabad with a large variety of trekking and climbing gear.
In Pakistan, availability of outdoor equipment has been scarce however nowadays one may get a range of articles in Lahore and Islamabad. Few years ago, Ascender was established by a group of experienced and dedicated team of trekkers, where they offer a variety of branded items alongwith some replicas. The range of equipment includes new and old items. They also rent out camping equipment at certain limit which is a great facility for individual trekkers and large groups alike.
Uzma had neatly arranged her equipment in her kit bag. I remember there was a search for her shoes as new mountaineering boots are not available in Pakistan. Since those are very expensive and the sale is not frequent so nobody takes a chance to include this item in their stores. At times, one can find slightly used boots from Skardu market or from some individuals in this business however those are mostly available in large sizes, mainly standard adult male size. For Uzma as she would be the only Pakistani lady in proper mountaineering activity after Samina Baig, it was hard to find climbing boots of her size. The similar issue was for her jacket also, however after exploring local shops and importing few items from abroad, her kit was complete in all respects.
In the late afternoon, German climbers came to our camp as they had completed their packing and now wanted to discuss the plan so it would align with our team. They were also invited as we had to give a farewell dinner to our climbing team, before leaving base camp for summit. Weather was still not clear but wasn’t looking as harsh as it was yesterday. Finding some spare time, Wajid and I started to note down the plan on paper while German climbers, Uzma and Mudassar got busy in playing Ludo.
Uzma had asked Jawwad to bring some books or magazines while coming up and Jawwad had given me a small pack for her, which was forgotten due to uncertain conditions and being busy in various arrangements. While discussing with Wajid, I went to my tent to bring my diary and I noticed that the pack was put there in a corner of my tent, which Jawwad had brought for Uzma. I picked it up to hand over to Uzma, though I was thinking that now onwards, Uzma may hardly find any spare time to read a book. At dinner time, when I entered in mess tent, Ludo was still in full swing and both team were playing with great concentration. I gave the pack to Uzma, which she kept with her to open after the game.
We had a superb dinner in a pleasant atmosphere. Everyone was excited for the next assignment, which may fulfil their dream for which they had spent time and money and faced tough and arduous conditions in last three weeks. It was planned that we will go to sleep early so next morning, the climbing party can depart early. I finished my dinner followed by a cup of green tea and came out of the tent to see the sky. Although there was no rain but I could feel the humid air, which may result in raining at any time. However, with crossed fingers, we were about to go to the tents when I heard Uzma’s voice as she was yelling my name almost hysterically. I got scared and rushed towards the mess tent to see, if everything was fine.
tiktraventures 